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Восхождение Александра Ручкина и Михаила Михайлова на вершину 6134 в Китае — номинант 18-го Piolet D’Or
Жюри конкурса отобрало из 52 интересных восхождений, совершенных альпинистами из разных стран, 5 лучших, которые и стали номинантами конкурса. Среди этих пяти было восхождение на пик 6134 в альпийском стиле.
Церемония вручения 18-ого «Золотого Ледоруба» /Piolet d’Or/ состоялась 7-10 апреля 2010 года в Шамони/Франция/ — Курмайор/Италия/. Это самая престижная премия в альпинизме. Горовосхождения во Франции, Италии, Швейцарии, это целая Индустрия экстремального отдыха в горах. Номинация Poliet d’Or во Франции за восхождение, как номинация Оскар в Голливуде, в Америке, за лучший сценарий, режиссуру, операторскую работу, игру главных героев. Только восходители, они же продюсеры, сценаристы, операторы и главные герои.
Мы направлялись в Китай, в мало исследуемый район Тибета, чтобы совершить восхождение на никем не пройденную гору. У нас было мало времени на посещение культурных исторических ценностей. Мы знакомились с Китаем и его особенностями по мере продвижения к району восхождения, под названием Минья Конка.
Знакомство началось с города Ченгду, столицы одной из провинций, Сычуань, куда мы прилетели на самолете, за 9,5 часов из Москвы, через Пекин.
Каково же было наше удивление, что Ченгду, это не деревня с аэропортом, а город будущего. 11-миллионный город-сад. Красивые, современные высотные здания, широкие улицы, отличные дороги, удобные развязки, переплетение мостов и дорог. И все смотрится красиво, как будто над этим хорошо поработали дизайнеры.
Completely Original Work from ProEssayWriter
Quite a few fake firms offer you stock papers for high costs. This means that you’ll be paying for operate other students have made use of or have written and it may not completely match your assignment. Pro Essay Writer is a web-site which entirely avoids this difficulty by gathering the facts of one’s distinct paper.
Your paper will probably be written from scratch by an professional writer who will guarantee custom-writing.weebly.com/pro-essay-writer-review.html every single aspect, from the wording towards the arguments utilized, is fully original. This really is accomplished via cautious proofreading that checks the grammar and spelling, a no cost plagiarism scan, and limitless revisions.
All the function will also be developed primarily based on the specifications you have got offered. This contains specifics for instance:
- The academic level
- The variety of pages
- The deadline
- The topic matter
- The style of formatting
You also have the opportunity to upload any files you might have connected to the assignment so you can make sure the experienced writers from Pro-Essay-Writer have all of the information required to offer you the best knowledge probable.
Specialist Writers from Pro-Essay-Writer
The writers from Pro-Essay-Writer are one of a kind in that they are all highly-qualified for this kind of function. You’ll not locate writers of a equivalent stature on any other website. They every single are expected to have an official degree that’s at the least 1 level greater than that in the function which can be getting ordered.
In addition they have to have to possess legit subject knowledge that may permit them to invest a lot more time writing the paper. It can be straightforward to see the top quality of the writing perform when you review 1 in the sample pieces on the Pro-Essay-Writer site. These are just some examples that prior consumers have permitted Pro-Essay-Writer to share as proof from the websiteвЂ™s legitimacy and good quality.
Student Support at Pro-Essay-Writer
Despite the fact that the writing solutions are actually simple, it doesnвЂ™t imply the whole process is often issue-free. For any challenge, there’s a team of friendly customer help professionals which might be there for students.
Students can speak to Pro-Essay-Writer team by way of the websiteвЂ™s chat, by telephone or Skype to seek assist contacting the writer to produce adjustments to the assignment or their accounts, request a refund if the work is significantly less than satisfactory, or to resolve any technical concerns too. They are true those who care about your order and making sure that you are pleased you sought this alternative to writing the paper yourself.
Putting an Order at Pro-Essay-Writer
Pro-essay-writer.com has been particularly developed to make the lives of students much easier, which can be why it receives such a higher rating in all of their critiques. Inside a handful of basic actions, students can go from desperately needing perform performed to acquiring it completed for them:
- Enter the information on the paper, blog or essay in to the website
- Log in for your account or make one
- Enter any coupon or discount
- Make the payment for the function via a safe channel
- Wait for the operate to become sent for your email
- Approve it or ask for revisions
«Тело есть мысль, облаченная в доступную восприятию форму»
Превзойти других — в этом мало пользы, превзойти себя- в этом все. Восхождение на сложнейшую стену, восхождение на большой предельной высоте или одиночное восхождение позволяют испытать себя, когда в крайнем напряжении всех духовных и физических сил подходишь к пределу своих возможностей.
Когда ты один, ты один со своими мыслями , со своим страхом. Победа над этим страхом есть движение вперед. Победа над собой делает тебя счастливым.
Сначала была идея пролезть стену в двойке зимой. Потом в одиночку. Идея созревала больше года. Всякая зароненная идея должна созреть. Мысль привела мое тело под стену. Мысль , которая не давала покоя. Единственный выход — испытать себя на северной стене в одиночку, которая пугала и манила. Пугала своей непредсказуемостью — я собираюсь пролезть новым маршрутом. И манила своей крутой и гладкой стеной, слегка испещренная тонкими трещинами.
Как мы в Перу ездили, и на Таулераху ходили.
Меня только недавно отпустило.
Перу. Загадочная и до сих пор полная загадок страна, рисунки в долине Наска, Мачупикчу и потерявшиеся инки и фантастически красивые Горы Кардильеры Бланки.
10 дней искали мой потерявшийся багаж при перелете из Лимы в Москву.
Можно подвести итог и поделиться, чтоб другим было легче идти проторенной нами дорогой..
Students choose essay creating corporations to finish their do the task | Top rated Rated Developing Corporations
According to figures, 43% of grownups have concerns with overall health and physical fitness because of stress, as a consequence of the truth strain often can lead to complications, considerable blood strain, anxiety, heart troubles and even depression. College college students are the biggest part of people suffering from pressure and its effects. The risk of worry receiving by students increases in December, April and May, mainly since this is the time of examinations and tests.
Of course exams are always accompanied by strain. But unfortunately this is not the only problem mainly because of which college students get into pressure situation. The most common problem for all college college students is a lack of time and at the same time a large number of writing works.
Students Have the Right to Have Personal Life
Are you still asking yourself why so many people suffer from pressure? Do you know that a lot of college students nowadays have to combine study with get the job done, with virtually no free time being a consequence of a busy schedule? Now imagine that the student still has to write an essay for example, or research paper and or some study in addition to his or her function.
For example, we will tell you about Bella a fourth-year student at the Finance Department. Bella knows that she has to do the work in the field related to her specialty to find a good career after graduation. She also should participate in volunteer projects for a better resume. Remember that Bella is a full-time student at the university. She doesn’t have time for hobbies. She also attends a class in Philosophy as she has to take a course outside her specialization this year.
In addition to four final exams in December Bella must also submit five assignments by the end of the semester. Since four works were in her specialty Bella decided to function on them herself. The fifth assignment was in Philosophy but Bella had not enough time to do it. But this function can affect her GPA so she couldn’t fail it.
Knowing that the essay downloaded from the Internet can be plagiarized and she can’t submit such get the occupation done, Bella is looking for a site of the essay generating company.
Overview of Essay Building Services
Bella realized that applying for the Agency and paying for the solutions of essay generating will be the only way to get a well-written essay without wasting her time and energy. There are many providers that can provide such suppliers and you can find these services without complications. But there is a risk to contact with scammers.
We want to give you an overview of the most reliable companies that can help you with the solution of the academic writing difficulties. And we hope that we can help you make the right choice of secure company.
- General review of a company
Since 1997 and during almost two decades British company SuperiorPapers.com has a good reputation in providing essay writing providers. They perform outstanding works as a result of their experiences and attract customers as a consequence of their extensive network.
During two decades of their do the job they have built a large and strong network as properly as connections with professionals in different industries. That’s why like other companies from our list SuperiorPaper is company that have experienced staff who can cope with the undertaking at any level and on any subject, even if it seems that no one will be able to cope with your task.
Their most popular offers include:
- Different Essays;
- Courseworks on any subject;
- Research and Term Papers;
- Application Papers
- Editing function;
- Thesis and Dissertations.
Here are the most popular orders of regular customers. In addition to these solutions SuperiorPapers Company can offer many other businesses. For example those who are just starting their career can order a good resume and cover letter.
When choosing a website to buy essays online we always pay attention for the prices of the company. Pricing policies of such sites are very different. Some sites are very expensive owing you their exclusive get the career done, but there are also more affordable prices.
Of course SuperiorPapers can’t boast the lowest prices but they promise that the quality of solutions will compensate the cost mainly because they are the finest in their field. The price depends on the complexity, quality and timing of writing an essay. Let’s look at a few options:
- Standard Quality: US $ 19.99 (10 days deadline), US $ 22.99 (4 days deadline), and US $ 38.99 (24 hours deadline). Suitable for college or high school works that do not require any special knowledge and additional research.
- Premium Quality: from US $ 21.99 (10 days deadline) to US $ 24.99 (4 days deadline) and US $40.99 (24 hours deadline). Designed for undergraduate and graduate works that require complex research and analysis. These works are written by authors with MA and Ph.D. degrees.
- Platinum Quality: US $ 24.99 (10 days deadline) US $ 28.99 (4 days deadline), and US $ 45.99 (24 hours deadline). This option is designed for undergraduate and graduate works that require additional research and experience. A Platinum Quality works will be written by best writer and also edited by one of a Quality Assurance specialist.
The ability to obtain a $ 20 discount on your first order is an advantage of the company. This allows you to check the quality of the operate and save your money.
- General review of a company
EssayClick is a US-based service. The main objective of the company is to help customers to solve their difficulties giving them more opportunities and time for personal life. EssayClick is positioning itself as an all-in-one solution for college students from around the world who have difficulties with writing assignments. The company guarantees you a perform of a large quality of good English native writers that meet deadlines. Creating an essay includes:
- Always following instructions of the customers to deliver perfectly made, unique do the occupation;
- Writing a good introduction and a good conclusion of the essay;
- Finding strong arguments in support of the thesis;
- Working on interesting and relevant themes;
- Conducting individual and thorough research to create large quality content of the essay;
- Ensuring reliable scientific sources.
In addition for the essay writing this company can also offer many other companies such as producing theses and case research, books reports and annotated bibliographies, and many other popular corporations in writing.
So from reviews and from personal experience we can say that quality of firms of this company is perfect it can be described as one of the most popular businesses today. We must say that the providers of this company are at a large level. But no matter how skilled a writer is, the customer may not always be fully satisfied with the end result, and in such cases the company is ready to revise and correct the operate in the right direction for free. It is very important to get the job done properly with each client for improvement of company’s service.
In this company’s prices for providers depend on the level of research that is ordered. Price for large school works will be cheaper than for graduate works. Works which require additional studies and expertise will be of course more expensive. Consider the options for a work of a college student:
- Work with 10 days deadline will cost US $ 14.00 for one page;
- Work with 8 days deadline will cost US $ 15.00 for one page;
- Work with 5 days deadline will cost US $ 17.50 per page;
- 3 days deadline will make the price US $ 19.00 per page;
- Work with 1 day deadline will cost US $ 26.00 for one page.
The prices of the company are lower than the prices in SuperiorPapers.com. But we still want to advise you to make your orders in advance, as this will help to save money and avoid difficulties.
- General review of a company
The main aim of this American company is to become indispensable and one the only company for the customers. It is great that the company understands the importance of the quality of their operate so the client could entrust a scientific get the job done without worrying that the company carry out the perform efficiently and within the allotted time and he will get good grades. The company successfully cooperates with more than 300 experts from different fields on a regular basis. So the company is able to make a good impression and become the number one for every client.
If you want to order a dissertation or other do the job at the Pro-Essay-Writer, you can entrust this get the occupation done without hesitating to talented writers, editors and proofreaders who have access towards the ideal big libraries and who will perform your job at the significant professional level using modern scientific info. Editors and proofreaders play an important role in the final stage, since they have the ability to make the job a unique and unrepeatable so all the finest writers in the company’s function with experienced editors and proofreaders. If you don’t need producing assistance but you want to edit your operate, the company will be happy to help you in it too.
Due towards the vast number of customers the company offers quite reasonable prices for their solutions at about the same level as the previous company we talked about. Despite the truth that professional staff of this company deserves a higher level of wages, students have the ability not to pay all their savings for the solutions of this company. The prices of the company are the next:
- High School Level: 10 days deadline- US $ 11.50; 8 days deadline – US $ 12.50; 5 days deadline – US $ 15.00; 3 days deadline – US $ 16.50; 24 hours deadline – US $ 20.50.
We advise you to contact the company in advance to have a time to make changes. Then you will be able to get a finished do the work of a good quality within the specified time. Prices of the company are quite affordable.
- College Level: 10 days deadline – US $ 14.00; 8 days deadline – US $ 15.00; 5 days deadline – US $ 17.50; 3 days deadline – US $ 19.00; 24 hours deadline – US $ 23.00.
You can find similarities in the prices of this company and the previous one. They try to keep prices at stable level and give college students an ability to order their solutions.
- University Level: 10 days deadline – US $ 16.50; 8 days deadline – US $ 17.50; 5 days deadline – US $ 20.00; 3 days deadline – US $ 21.50; 24 hours deadline – US $ 26.00.
These levels are the most popular and on account of the truth that Masters and Doctors of Philosophy works always require special research and knowledge prices for them are higher. The price for such works can reach US $ 30, depending on the customer’s needs.
- General review of a company
Visiting the site Bestessays.com with excellent and elegant design brings you to a company that clearly knows how to attract the customer. This company is another veteran among similar businesses.
Very generally, we can’t calculate the time and leave an important task until the last moment, in this case, the company Bestessays ready to take this difficult task, and perform the perform, even for three hours. This rapid response and higher quality performing of works are very important benefit of the company. There is also a 15% discount for the first order of the customer. As the first company we talked about (SuperiorPapers) Bestessays.com team also gives the customer the opportunity to try and check the quality of services without spending much money.
We believe that the ideal indicator of the success of the company is the large number of orders every day. More than 600 experts in this company help college students in making and perform around 375 orders daily. We can confidently say that the company is a real giant.
Like the first company in our list Bestessays also offers pricing system that includes Standard, Premium, and Platinum quality. Let’s look specifically at it:
- Standard Quality: US $ 21.99 – for a 10 days deadline. However, standard orders are not priority of the company you will receive the most effective quality but not many benefits.
- Premium Quality: US $ 23.99 – for one page. The company claims that this is the most popular choice mainly since orders of a Premium Quality are written by one of the 10 best experts in your field.
- Platinum Quality: US $ 26.99 – for one page. With this level of quality your perform will be written by one of the greatest writers with a Ph.D. degree and after that it will be edited by one of the Quality Assurance experts.
You can see that this is the most expensive company in our review. But there is a guarantee that you will be paid as much attention as you can imagine. They also can make you a good discount which varies from 5% to 15 % depending of the number of pages that you order.
- General review of a company
A group of students had developed this site after they saw their friends who had to spend a lot of time for numerous generating works, sacrificing their personal lives. Developers react for the process very seriously and tried to make producing process easier and more enjoyable. The company can perform many different tasks, such as laboratory reports, review articles, book reports, case research, dissertations, and other types of different writing assignments. You will be able to communicate with a writer who will perform your do the job. And you will be able to see the intermediate consequence of your order and make adjustments if they are necessary. EssayDragon is one of the leaders of our list.
The prices of the company are at an average level. You should pay:
- US $11,50 per page – for a considerable school project. It would be better if the order will be made in advance;
- US $14 per page – for a college generating assignment;
- US $ 16.50 per page – for a university perform. It would be better to make an order in advance.
- US $ 19 per page – for a Master’s thesis;
- US $ 23 per page – for a Ph.D. dissertation.
- General review of a company
WriteMyPaper4Me is a company that positions itself as being a highly motivated company. The company believes that the quality of their works is at the highest level. And it’s true. Writers who are hired by this company should have a good education and experience in different sectors. Every employee has to go through several complex tests to assess the level of his/her skills. So, you cannot doubt in the reliability and professionalism of writers in this company.
At the same time, this company can save you money (up to$ 60) if you make a complex order. Look at the list of free features that they offer:
- Free heading and content pages;
- Free plan of the paper;
- Free and fast delivery;
- Free changes and additions for the get the task done;
- Free multiple revisions if they are needed;
- Free thesis and dissertation project;
- Free references;
- Free editing of the get the work done and proofreading by specialist.
In our opinion, all firms must include editing and proofreading into their solutions as the company WriteMyPaper4Me does.
WriteMyPaper4Me offers affordable prices for their services. The writing assignment performed for the college will cost from US $ 14 to US $ 23 per page. In this case, the price will vary depending on the urgency of the process. The cost of assignment for the undergraduate student will vary from US $ 16 to US $ 20. The do the occupation can be submitted even on the next day. WriteMyPaper4Me simplifies all things. You can go to their website and there you will find a calculator so you will be able to calculate the cost of your order easily. That will help you to make a right choice.
Well, we have described everything that we know about these well-known firms so now you can decide on the ideal one and get the higher quality service.
Teachers annotations and read this dissertation an archive of student work associated with the lessons further enrich the resource
«Господи, я не верю, что мы живы!», – воскликнул Михайлов, когда группа спустилась на ледник после восхождения на Кызыл Аскер.
В альплагерях учили: главная опасность в горах – не высота, холод, лавины, камнепады, крутые скалы и лед, главная опасность в горах – сами восходители. Их неадекватные действия на фоне болезни, страха, усталости, недостаток профессионализма, проблема лидера, сложные психологические отношения в группе: Восхождение по Юго-Восточной стене Кызыл Аскер собрало весь букет, и стало Рубиконом для Александра Ручкина, который с 1998 года участвовал в проекте «Русский путь – стены мира». После big wall Кызыл Аскер он принял решение выйти из проекта. Александр считает, что подробности этого восхождения должны быть озвучены для альпинистского комьюнити.
Донесение разведчика: Александр Ручкин подводит итоги экспедиции под Машербрум
Около месяца потребовалось двум Александрам, Одинцову и Ручкину, чтобы разведать подходы к горе Машербрум (7821м) и наметить возможный маршрут по её северо-восточной стене. Можно считать, что выбран новый объект для проекта «Русский путь — Стены мира». Недавно вернувшийся со спецзадания разведчик Ручкин повествует о проделанной работе:
… Оказалась, что эта северо-восточная стена Машербрума очень красивая и сложная, и непонятно, почему она до сих пор не пройдена. По неполным разведданым, на вершину было совершено всего одно успешное восхождение; на стену, которая нас интересует, попыток восхождения не было вообще.
Верхняя часть стены видна с ледника Балторо, с караванных путей на известные восьмитысячники-К2, Гашербрумы, Броуд Пик. Разведчики донесли свои тела почти до стены на высоту 4550м: начало маршрута ориентировочно на 4700м, вершина 7821м, из этого следует, что длина стенной части маршрута около 3 км.
Северная Стена Жанну
Вершина Жанну 7710м в Гималаях, одна из самых красивейших и труднодоступных вершин мира. Крутые вознесшиеся в высь гребни, образуют широкие плечи горы, над которыми возвышается отвесный, скальный бастион. В Непале ее зовут – Кумбхакарна.
Кумбхакарна, непальское имя, на санскрите означает имя одного из демонов, брата демона Раваны, убитого господом Рамачандрой более миллиона лет назад. По древним легендам, этот демон был очень сильный с широкими плечами, и никто не мог его победить. В
честь этого демона и названа гора, так похожая на огромного исполина, с широкими плечами, как эти гребни.